1. Identification of front and back sides
Among various types of textile fabrics, it is difficult to distinguish the front and back sides of some fabrics. It is easy to make mistakes if you are not careful during the garment sewing process. It will cause errors, such as uneven color shades and unequal patterns. In serious cases, it will cause obvious color differences, confusing patterns, and fabric inversions, which will affect the appearance of the garments. In addition to the sensory methods of seeing and touching the fabric, the authenticity of the fabric can also be identified from the fabric’s organizational structure characteristics, color characteristics, special appearance effects after special finishing, and from the fabric’s trademark stickers and seals.
1. Identification based on the organizational structure of the fabric
(l) Plain weave fabric: plain weave It is difficult to identify the front and back of a fabric, so there is actually no difference between the front and back (except for printed fabrics). Generally, the front side of plain weave fabrics is relatively smooth and clean, and the color is uniform and bright.
(2) Twill fabric: Twill weave is divided into two types: single-sided twill and double-sided twill. The single-sided twill pattern is clear and obvious on the front, but blurry on the back. In addition, in terms of the inclination of the grain, the front grain of a single yarn fabric slopes from the upper left to the lower right, and the grain of a half-line fabric or a full-line fabric slopes from the lower left to the upper right. The front and back grains of a double-sided twill are basically the same, but the twill To the opposite.
(3) Satin fabric: Because more of the warp or weft yarns on the front of the satin fabric emerge from the cloth surface, the cloth surface is smooth, tight and shiny. The texture on the reverse side looks like plain or twill, with a darker luster.
In addition, the warp twill and warp satin weave have more warp floating points on the front, and the weft twill and weft satin weave have more weft floating points on the front.
2. Identification based on fabric patterns and colors
Comparison of patterns and patterns on the front of various fabrics Clear and clean, the shape and line outline of the pattern are relatively fine and obvious, with distinct layers, and the colors are bright, vivid and full; the reverse side is lighter in color than the front side, the line outline is blurred, the pattern lacks layers, and the luster is duller.
3. Based on fabric tissue changes and pattern identification
Jacquard, lattice, and striped fabrics The texture patterns vary a lot. On the front side of the texture, there are generally fewer floating yarns, and the stripes, plaids and proposed patterns are more obvious than on the reverse side, and the lines are clear, the outline is prominent, the color is uniform, and the luster is bright and soft; on the reverse side, the patterns are vague, the outline is unclear, and the color is dull. . There are also some jacquard fabrics with unique and unique patterns on the back, and the colors are harmonious and quiet, so the back is used as the main material when making clothes. As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, the floating length is uniform, and the fastness is not affected, the reverse side can also be used as the front side.
4. Identification based on the fabric edge
Generally, the front side of the fabric is smoother than the back side. Stiff, with the selvage edge curled inwards on the reverse side. For fabrics woven by shuttleless looms, the front edge of the fabric is relatively smooth, and it is easy to find the clumps of weft yarn ends on the reverse edge. Some high-end fabrics. Such as woolen fabrics. There are characters or other characters woven on the edge of the fabric. The characters or characters on the front are clearer, more obvious, and smoother; while the characters or characters on the back are blurry and the fonts are written backwards.
5. Identification of appearance effects according to the special finishing of fabrics
(1) Raised fabric: Fabric The front side has dense plush, and the back side has a velvet-free texture. Those with obvious ground textures such as plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy, etc. Some fabrics have dense velvet, and even the texture of the ground tissue is difficult to see.
(2) Burnt-out fabric: The pattern made by chemical treatment has clear outline, layering and bright color on the front. If it is suede burnt-out, the suede will be plump and even. , such as burnt silk, georgette, etc.
6. Identification based on trademarks and seals
When the entire fabric is inspected before leaving the factory, it is generally Paste the product trademark paper or instructions, and the side to be pasted is the reverse side of the fabric; the factory date and inspection seal stamped on both ends of each piece and section are the reverse side of the fabric. Unlike domestically sold products, exported products have their trademarks and seals stamped on the front.
2. Identification of inverted wool
Some clothing fabrics, such as Corduroy, velveteen, velvet, plush and various woolen fabrics, etc., have reversed suede surfaces. There are obvious differences in the hair on the front and back of these fabrics. Generally, if you touch it with your hands, what is supported by the hair head is the inverted hair. Those with submissive hair are Shunmao. In addition, there is a noticeable difference in color. When making clothing with this kind of fabric, it is obvious to distinguish the front and back sides of the suede. For example, the suede side of corduroy is the front side. To correctly judge the direction of the pile of the fabric, use down or smooth cutting. In addition, when cutting fabrics with velvet, it is necessary to use a single-piece cutting method so that the velvet of the main and secondary parts are consistent, otherwise the finished garment effect will be inconsistent. Some fabrics have a glitter effect, and you must also pay attention to the reverse direction, otherwise the glitter color will be inconsistent, affecting its effect. For some asymmetrical plaid fabrics, you should also pay attention to the inversion. The treatment method is the same as that of woolen fabrics and corduroy with inversion.
3. Defect identification
The presence or absence of defects is a test of fabric quality. Important standards, the main reasons for defects are as follows:
1. Defects caused by poor fiber quality are called yarn defects;
2. Defects produced during weaving are called weaving defects;
3. Printing, dyeing, finishing and other processesDefects caused by printing are called printing defects.
Severe defects should be cut off. For relatively minor defects in woolen and silk fabrics, a small string should be tied to the edge of the fabric outside the defect as a mark. , commonly known as “little braid”. For other textiles, such as artificial cotton and polyester-cotton fabrics, “pigtails” are not tied, but the grade of the fabric is evaluated according to the specific situation (severity of defects).
Slight defects will directly affect the appearance, while serious defects will damage the local strength and wear resistance, so defects on the fabric should be avoided as much as possible when cutting. If it cannot be avoided, the defects can be placed in parts of the garment that are not subject to frequent wear to avoid affecting the appearance and durability of the garment.
1. Original yarn defects.
Defects on the cloth surface caused by yarn defects.
2. Defects in original color cloth.
3. Defects in yarn-dyed fabrics.
4. Defects in printing and dyeing cloth.
4. Identification and correction of latitude and skew
Various colors During the weaving and finishing process, due to the influence of mechanical tension, the weft yarns appear in the fabric, which is collectively referred to as “weft skew”. Weft skew includes check skew, pattern skew and weft skew, etc. Check skew is the most common, especially in various types of plaid velvet. The weft bias of yarn-dyed fabrics has the following three forms:
1. One side weft bias: It shows that the width of the fabric is a slope with one end high and the other low.
2. Central arcuate weft: represents the arc-shaped recess in the middle of the fabric.
3. Side arcuate weft: represents the arc-shaped indentation on one side (left or right) of the fabric.
Regardless of the weft skew pattern, if it is not corrected in advance, the appearance and intrinsic quality of the garment will be damaged after it is made into clothing. For example, serious weft skew on plaid fabrics or horizontal striped fabrics will cause the left and right or front and rear parts of the garment to become out of alignment, seriously affecting the appearance and quality of the garment. If the weft skew is not corrected, it will cause the weft threads of the garment to be out of alignment, causing the garment to become distorted and uneven, causing serious inherent quality problems in the finished garment.
There are two methods of correcting the weft bias:
1. Manual correction: Spray the raw material with water to moisten it and then two directions along the weft bias. People pull against each other. Although this method is effective, it is labor-intensive and slow.
2. Machine correction: Most weft and skew correction machines are designed and manufactured by garment factories themselves. The straightening machine consists of five major components: bracket, transmission, steam spray device, weft adjustment device and ironing roller. It is characterized by labor-saving and fast work efficiency. Some clothing materials with serious weft skew require repeated corrections to achieve results. </p
